OK as I said before, these are not figures I would have chosen to paint all by myself being the wrong scale and region. But all that said it's been fun painting 20mm Naps. Indeed quite the reverse to what I had expected as I must confess to a small groan on checking Tim's blog out to see what he seemed to paint the most.
I have tried to imitate Tim's style gong back to using washes and highlights that I seldom do these days due to the AP style of washing post painting. I think I will do a bit more highlighting in future thanks to this experience. Mind you I was highlighting 6mm at the start of the week LOL.
This is the first 12 of 24 figures that I have to paint for Tim, the Jagers have their green jackets done and I may get some more done later but that may be all I get time for today.
So whilst I tried to keep them like Tim I could not resist adding gloss white (Vellejo 70842) to the straps or inking the Shako peaks both post matt varnishing them. Another area I went away from was the extra straps under the arms as these in y opinion just add too much clutter to the figure and it's rare to see them on the finished figures. Tim can always add them if he disagrees.
Going from 6mm to 20mm would be hard. The principals are the same, but the execution is different. I really do like these guys Ian. The blue on them is nice and the white offsets it perfectly.
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ReplyDeleteThey look fantastic Ian, I love the effect on the packs!
ReplyDeleteNice work Ian, love the subtle shading.
ReplyDelete@ Anne, it can be a bit strange for the first few minuttes but soon it's fine. I do a lot of 28mm WWII so I am often jumping from one to the next
ReplyDelete@ Tim, it's an eash effect, you just need to use both colours at the same time. I use Vallejo Ivory (70918) and different browns to get the effect I want, in this case US Field Drab (873 (an old bottle)) but I will probably use a different brown for the Jager. Just painton the brown on a single figure then do the ivory painting into the brown and allowingthe edges to meld, some of the brown often works further in the ivory, ths is fine. Makes a great goat skin shield effect as well.
@ Ray, 20mm shading is easier than 15mm, also I think the sculpting of 20mm plastics help as it gives great guide lines
Ian